Designed in Bangladesh, made in Europe.
Sneaker flips the script on fashion's exploitation of the global south.
This vegan sneaker designed by up-and-coming Bangladeshi talent aims to change how we look at the global fashion industry.
Rokaiya Ahmed Purna with her design: the ekn কাঁঠাল Kamthala
When was the last time you bought a product designed in Bangladesh, but produced in Europe? Today, in a step that subverts the typical status quo of fashion design, sustainable footwear brand ekn is launching a limited edition vegan sneaker. Designed in Bangladesh and manufactured in Portugal, the ekn কাঁঠাল Kamthala is a collaboration between Frankfurt-based eco sneaker brand ekn and rising female Bangladeshi designer, Rokaiya Ahmed Purna.
Named after Bangladesh’s national fruit - the jackfruit - the কাঁঠাল Kamthala makes a bold statement to the industry to rethink how it works with the Global South, turning the usual ‘designed in the Global North, manufactured in the Global South’ paradigm on its head.
The idea behind the shoe is to create a ‘sneaker as a symbol of respect’ - aiming to reverse some of the unethical supply chain practices, pollution and exploitation that have been synonymous with the industry for decades -- tapping into younger generations’ appetite for meaningful change not just greenwashing.
Designer Purna is committed to gender equality, responsible consumption and production, promoting indigenous textiles and innovation, and empowering women and girls in her home country. “In Bangladesh we have a very rich cultural tradition and heritage, which I try to implement into all of my work. My own roots and childhood memories also influence my designs; the inspiration for the ekn Kamthala comes from the jackfruit, the national fruit of Bangladesh, which I have a deep relationship with: as a child there was a tree right in front of my house where I would play, and draw, and nap under,” she says.
“We’ve become used to the term ‘Made in Bangladesh’, not ‘Designed in Bangladesh’, but the new generation of Bangladeshis are starting to think differently and act differently. And as part of this generation, I feel fortunate to have the opportunity to create change. I’m living the dream of so many people, so it’s an opportunity which comes with a lot of responsibility.”
Putting Respect First
Ekn was founded in 2013 by Noel Klein-Reesink, after years searching for the perfect skate shoe and designing for New Balance and adidas. His experience taught him that there was a serious need for a well designed, thoughtful and sustainable sneaker, hence ekn’s long term mission statement is "Made in friendship" - an alternative to inhumane and environmentally degrading practices
“The ekn Kamthala shoe is a statement - a sign of respect. Because in a fair world there is no privileged side of the arrangement. If fairness is the goal, we should share our aspirations.” says Klein-Reesink.
Alexander Grapp, Group Creative Director at Accenture Song and initiator of the concept, says: “‘Made In’ labels not only brush over the unjust conditions that people in the Global South often work under – they also reinforce harmful stereotypes about creativity and production in the so-called ‘First’ and ‘Third World’. They presume that American and European design is superior to that of the countries where brands outsource their production, which is simply not the case. All of this is what we wanted to challenge with this statement. And along the way we learned and were continually inspired by the creativity and resilience of designers from Bangladesh like Rokaiya. We hope this makes people think! We’d like to invite more companies and brands to work in a different way with countries like Bangladesh and beyond - and to harness the talent and creativity that is clearly waiting to be more widely recognized.”
All ekn’s shoes are produced in Portugal from sustainable materials, with the aim of providing high-quality footwear without the social and environmental harm caused by most similar manufacturers.
All profits from sales of the shoes will be going to Bangladesh. “One idea is to set up an NGO or creative hub that could offer the creative people of Dhaka a new place to work,” comments Klein-Reesink. “We are looking for talented designers in other countries to create an ongoing series of shoes.”
The limited edition ekn কাঁঠাল Kamthala is now globally available online on www.eknfootwear.com
Link to images here https://drive.google.com/drive/u/0/folders/1I2TB_p7cOxxyDzqHdlV9lhnuQrjs8lnb
